November 3rd, 2008 by Gypsy

Remember our Turf to Trees Forum if you have a tree question >> Turf to Trees Forum.

The photos below illustrate one way of making bird perches. Another option is carving or shaving the ends of sticks and branches to wedge them between cage bars and fasten with leather or material. But the hardware method does allow the perches to be anchored very firmly..

For the method below, select safe non-toxic wood and use stainless steel hardware.

That’s stainless steel washers, and whatever the bird can reach - but usually the washers. There are paragraphs below to make the project go smoothly as well as for providing a safe product.

The methods below will work for both ends of a long perch if you take your time to measure - maybe even trimming the length twice as needed in small increments. After you find your perch wood, about the only other supplies needed are the hardware pieces.

Those are:

1. Washers. These in the photo are called fender washers.

These need to be big enough to span across the cage bars without slipping off. So measure the bars first - the width of the cage between the bars.

The washers have to be stainless steel to reduce or prevent the risk of zinc toxicity; a hazard with zinc fender washers. Match the center hole size to the hanger bolt - item 2.

2. Hanger bolts. That is the threaded piece of hardware with a screw or lag type thread at one end and a machine thread at the other.

The machine thread end stays on the outside of the perch.

3. Wing nuts. I suppose you could use hexagonal nuts, but wing nuts are more convenient for many people.

If you use hex nuts, two of them can be used together to thread the hanger bolt into the perch wood with a wrench. See one of the images below.

At least in our case, the birds could only reach the washers. We bought stainless steel washers and were not too concerned about the metal content of the wing nuts or hanger bolts since those were out of reach on the outside of the cage.

These items (washers, nuts and hanger bolts) are available at most hardware stores. Sometimes the smaller hardware stores have a better selection of special hardware, or can order the pieces.

Be sure to match diameter of the washer hole with the hanger bolt diameter. Also check to see that the nut threads on the hanger bolt before you leave the hardware store.

Many of these items are available by the box or the bag, in quantities like 50, 100, or more.

The cost per piece was a lot less for the ones we bought when all of them were ordered by the box.

Smaller perches won’t need as large of hardware as larger perches. When the length of a large diameter perch exceeds 12″, you might consider extending the perch completely from side to side, with a hanger bolt at each end.

Bigger birds also weigh more and can put more pressure on the hanger bolt.

The perches in the top photo are about 14″ long, and were for cockatiels. I recall using 1/4″ hanger bolts for those. Had those perches been for our African grey parrot, 3/8″ hanger bolts would have been our choice.

Predrill a hole in the perch before threading in the hanger bolt. If you don’t predrill, the perch can split, similar to how splitting wedges will divide firewood.

Make sure the hole is big enough to start threading that hanger bolt in. But not so large that the hanger bolt will loosen; causing the perch to rotate free. Keep it firm.

If you hold the hanger bolt up in front of a window or light source, you will be able to see the inside diameter of the shank along the threads. You can hold a few drill bits in front of the hanger bolt, until you find a bit that’s the right size.

You don’t want a drill as large as the outside diameter of the threads. That’s too bif of a bit.

Hopefully its obvious, but you will be threading the “screw” resembling threads into the wood, not the “machine” threads. The threads for the nut are usually more numerous and closer together. Those stay on the outside for the nut, and the coarse threads spaced farther apart, thread into the wood. Those appear to spiral slightly.

Once you get your hanger bolts, you’ll see that there is no end to use a tool for driving it in. Not unless technology changes.

It’s not like a screw that has an indent for a screw driver, or a nut or bolt with a head for a wrench.

One way to thread the hanger bolt into the perch is with a nut that’s closed on one end. It’s an option, but those nuts are a tad bit spendy. If you will make several dozen, that may be desireable, since you can use a nut driver on the end of a drill or cordless screwdriver.

But you need to drive the hanger bolt gently if you use a closed-end nut. Otherwise the hanger bolt can punch out the end of the nut.

You can drive the hanger bolt in using a socket on a drill attachment as shown, or with a hand held nut driver, or wrench.

If you use the drill, go slow, not just to avoid damaging the nuts. You don’t want to drive the hanger bolt too deeply into the hole. If it threads in too far, you may have to damage the machine theads with pliers to get it back out. Typically, these don’t “back-out” of the hole well with wrenches and nuts.

You would need to clamp pliers directly onto the threads and reverse the hanger bolt out of the hole. And these hanger bolts are not inexpensive. Probably 25 cents to 50 cents apiece (2005 price).

You want to drive the hanger bolt in just enough to hide the coarse threads. And possibly the short segment without threads which is between the two types of threads.

Turn the hanger bolt and drive it in until the screw type thread dissappears into the perch and maybe and extra eighth of an inch. Hopefully the hole is the right size, and not drilled too big.

If you accidentally drilled the hole too big - making the hanger bolt loose - you have at least two options. One option is cutting one inch off the perch and drilling again with a smaller bit. The other option, is sliding a small sliver of wood into the hole, or a couple of wooden toothpicks. Sometimes that will work.

You can also thread-in the hanger bolt using two nuts and a wrench. Actually two wrenches.

You thread both nuts on slightly, one against the other, and holding one nut in place one wrench, you clamp the second nut tight against it with the second wrench.

Then, you should be able to turn the outer nut, or both nuts with the hanger bolt rotating its way into the hole. Once the hanger bolt is threaded in, use two wrenches to separate the two nuts.

If you don’t have extra nuts at home, be sure to pick up one or two of the right kind from the hardware store before you go back home. The small nuts seem more susceptible to having the threads strip. Keep one, two or a few extras on hand.

Don’t use any oils to lubricate the hardware or the hole in the perch before threading. At least not petroleum oils or sewing machine oil. A bit of vegetable oil or something like that might be okay, but shouldn’t be essential.

Once the hanger bolt is inserted and you are ready to mount the perch, slide on the STAINLESS STEEL washers and the wing nut.

One washer goes on first, then a second washer on the outside of the cage.

You could skip the washer on the inside of the cage, but if you don’t use it, that means your birds can gnaw the end of the perch a lot easier without the metal obstacle.

In case you are concerned about your clothes getting ripped or someone getting snagged on the protruding hanger bolt: put several extra regular nuts on the hanger bolt before the wing nut is threaded on.

If you find a well stocked hardware store, they should carry small parts called “thread protectors” which slide onto the end of threads (bolts) to protect threads. These also provide safety by covering the exposed threads.

Our small birds really loved a small “chunky” or stubby kind of perch - I just called them “bird pods” - cross cut sections from small tree trunks.

VERY IMPORTANT:

If you make these and cut the wood too thin - it cracks. In fact, you can see from this photo that a tiny crack is present. Make sure that the wood for these is cut no thinner than 3 to 5 inches.

Also, the faster the wood dries, the worse it will crack. Dry the wood slowly. Don’t put it in a warm laundry room. Put it in an area where the wood will dry out in 2 to 3 weeks.

Now, about the cracks. You are almost certain to get some kind of small crack. That crack can catch a bird toe or toe nail especially where the crack tapers to a wedge.

I understand that a glue like elmer’s school glue is not toxic to birds. Squirt a tiny bit of that kind of glue into the crack. Then, while the glue is still wet in the crack - rub sand paper over the top of the “pod” perch and let the fine sanded wood particles push into the glue in the crack. That will fill the crack and eliminate the toe-trapping gap. The glue will need to dry overnight before installing in the cage.

Occasionally, one of these develops cracks too large to fill. In that case, toss it away. But, if you don’t cut the wood too thin, odds are your pod perch will be fine. The birds may not be able to reach the washers with this kind of perch. In that case, zinc might be okay. On the other hand, if all perch washers are stainless steel, you eliminate the hazard of mixing them up during cage cleaning or cage rearrangement, or if you discard an old perch and recycle the washers. A magnet will generally pick out a zinc washer and leave stainless steel alone.

October 13th, 2008 by Gypsy

Reasons for Plucking and Chewing Feathers

MATURITY - In reaching maturity, parrots go through a period of hormone imbalance very similar to that of a maturing teenager. This period is very confusing to them because they don’t understand what they are feeling. This does not necessarily mean that they are ready for breeding or parenthood any more than a teenager would be. In fact, a pet parrot would be even less prepared for a breeding situation. They don’t have other parrots or peers to learn from. Breeding and raising young is not instinctive for parrots. If they live with a flock in the wild, they learn from other parrots. As a pet bird, their flock is a human family. They have not learned to relate to another parrot or to raise young. Very often a pet bird will be abused or even attacked by another parrot. Putting a maturing pet bird into a breeding situation would be even worse than forcing a teenager into a marriage. Not only would it be doomed to certain failure, but it would feel deserted at a time when it most needs support. If a pet bird is to be put into a breeding situation, it should first be allowed to get acquainted with the bird that you have chosen for a mate. Before they are allowed to live together, make sure that one does not bully or abuse the other. Most often, if parrots that do not get along when they meet, they will probably never really become bonded. The best you could hope for is that they will learn to tolerate each other. If you decide to breed your pet, and it becomes bonded to its intended mate, you will have to accept that it will probably no longer be a pet. Most parrots must give up their human bond to become bonded to another parrot. If you decide to help your pet through this difficult period, instead of giving him up for breeding, you will likely have a companion for life.

ABUSE AND NEGLECT - Although abuse and/or neglect are most often blamed as the reason for feather plucking, these reasons, in the true sense, are seldom the cause. Both assume intent to harm. I have heard of a few very remote cases that a parrot was the target of a person taking out their anger and frustration, but, in most cases, what seems to be neglect, is ignorance of the parrots needs or a life too busy to include the bird. It is also possible that the parrot has developed habits that can no longer be tolerated, and so was shut into an area that it is always alone. This is something the fate of cockatoos that have started screaming in demand of attention. Granted, these things can be viewed as a form of abuse or neglect, but it isn’t generally intentional. There are cases of neglect and abuse in parrots, just as there are in children, but it is definitely not the most common reason for plucking. So, if you decide to “rescue” an abused, plucked parrot, keep in mind that the reasons for the plucking are likely to be one of the other reasons described here. You will probably have other problems, behavioral or nutritional, to overcome, and may have to accept the fact that the bird may never grow his feathers back - even if you change his diet and environment.

DIETARY DEFICIENCY OR IMBALANCE - An improper diet that is deficient in, or has an excess, of nutrients may also be a cause for plucking or chewing. For example, a diet that does not have enough protein may cause a parrot to start eating his own feathers to supplement his diet. Sometime a diet too low in fat will cause plucking in some greys. Each animal is an individual and will metabolize nutrients differently. So what works for one, may not work for another. If you parrot is plucking, it would be wise to have a complete physical done by an avian veterinarian to try to rule out a deficiency as the cause. The deficiency of some nutrients can be determined by blood tests.

BOREDOM OR LACK OF STIMULUS - Boredom and lack of stimulus is probably the most common cause of plucking. Parrots are very intelligent creatures. If left for long period with nothing to play with and nothing to watch, they will find something to occupy themselves. Pulling feathers, one by one, and watching them float to the bottom of the cage can be fun to do if there is nothing else available. Try to imagine how you might feel if you were left alone for long periods in a 6′ x 6′ room with no window and nothing but a chair in the middle. At the very least, you might start chewing your nails.

If you must leave your parrot alone for extended periods of time, make sure that he has a few different toys to play with. Even leaving on a radio or television for him will help to keep him entertained while you are gone.

CHANGES OR EMOTIONAL UPSET - Parrots, like people, often become very comfortable and secure with routine. When the routine is suddenly changed, they become very upset to the point of being physically destructive. African Greys are notorious for this behavior. Relocation to a new home, or even moving the cage to a different room, can set off a sudden desire to remove every feather within reach. By moving the cage to a more secure location, the plucking can stop as suddenly as it started.

Emotional upset is also a common cause for many parrot species. The loss of a loved one or even emotional upset and high tension in the family group can cause them to start plucking in frustration. They are upset and feel helpless to do anything, so they take out their frustrations on themselves. Children in similar situation will either rebel with negative behavior, become introverted and fearful, or develop psychological problems. As intelligent as parrots are, why should they react any differently?

OVERGROOMING BY A MATE - Sometimes you can put two beautifully feathered parrots together only to find in a short time that one or both has had all or most of their feathers removed. In some cases, this can be caused by an overzealous mate trying to do a really good job in grooming his beloved mate. Since some our breeders may have been pets at one time that were bonded to a person, I believe that some of them may be trying to make their mate look more like the person that they loved. That person probably didn’t have feathers. I have seen less plucking in imported parrots that have never bonded to a human.

HABIT - When a parrot has been plucking for a long period of time, it very often becomes a habit, like nail biting. Even if the original cause of the plucking is remedied, they continue to pull feathers. If you are confident that every possible cause has been investigated and eliminated, and the plucking persists, the next step would be to help your pet to break the habit. You must keep in mind that persistent and long-term plucking can damage feather follicles so that new feathers may never grow in.

MEDICAL PROBLEM - Parrots that are kept in areas that have possible fungal or mold grows can develop problems with fungal infections. Most of these infections are passed with spores in the air. The spores can cause problems in the skin and/or the lungs and air sacs. The most commonly know of these infections is known as aspergillus. This mold can sometimes cause obvious problems with breathing, but sometimes it goes unnoticed. Infections of this kind can cause plucking and sometimes self-mutilation. This problem can be remedied with detection and treatment with an anti-fungal medication.

Possible Remedies

The most obvious remedy would be to correct the cause of the plucking once it is determined what the cause is. Depending on the cause, the cure might be a more balanced diet, new toys for stimulus, moving the cage to a more secure location, etc. Once the problem is corrected, a possible habit must be discouraged or broken. Sometimes it can be as simple as spraymisting the bird’s remaining and new feathers with something that doesn’t taste good. Since all parrots have different likes and dislikes, the mixture used must be something that your parrot doesn’t like. Some of the mixtures that I have tried with some success are mustard and water, alum and water, and listerine and water. I wouldn’t use the mustard mixture on a white parrot. You will also have to get used to a bird that smells like a hot dog for a while. The others are more colorless and odorless. None of these mixtures would be effective for a bird that plucked down to the skin, and they would be painful for one that has started to self-mutilate. Immediate attention by a qualified avian vet is necessary for any parrot that has started to create open sores.

A Harlequin Macaw in Vest - Another common remedy for plucking is the “collar”. This is a circular disc cut from a rigid material that has a slit cut to the middle with a circle in the middle a bit larger than the diameter of the parrot’s neck. It is put around the parrot’s neck and fastened, usually by tape, at the slit. When it is on the parrot, it looks something like a cone with his head in the middle. This cone prevents the bird from reaching any of his feathers to pull them. This may seem a perfect solution to some, but it also make climbing in a cage and holding food to eat very difficult. For a parrot that has started plucking because of emotional upset or a high strung bird, this may only worsen the problem once the collar is removed.

A much less frustrating and solution is a homemade “vest”. Here is Quincy modeling a vest. When she reached 6 years of age, she started into the homone changes of maturity and totally plucked her chest clean. She had never plucked before, and within a couple of weeks she didn’t have a feather on her chest.  Although she was perfectly capable of tearing it to pieces, she left it on for 3 months. After this time, I took it off of her, and all of her feathers had grown back. She is now over 12 years old, and has not plucked since.  A vest can successfully help many plucking, and even self-mutilating, parrots to break the habit.

If you decide to make a vest like this one for your parrot, it should be the length from just above the breastbone to his vent. The first set of ties(1) should be tried around his neck. The second set (2) should go uner his wings and tie around his back. The third set (3) go between his legs and tie over his tail. The “V” cut (4) should be cut out under the vent so he doesn’t soil it.

source:   http://www.petparrot.com/ParrotCarePlucking.htm

October 7th, 2008 by Gypsy

Are you yearning for a feathery friend to sit on your shoulder and ask you for a cracker? Parrots make excellent companion pets, but are also very high maintenance, have specialized nutritional needs, and vary greatly in temperament and personality by species. Here’s what to consider in deciding whether or not to make a parrot a part of your household, and which species would suit your lifestyle best.

Steps

1. Do your homework. Scour the Internet for information on the different kinds of parrots that exist, and what their needs are (see the External Links below). But be aware that many specialty “enthusiast sites” may emphasize how nice a pet is, with insufficient warning of the challenges. The “Birds for Dummies” book is a good reference.
2. Make several visits to a local pet store that specializes in birds. Get to know the different species, and don’t buy on impulse. Parrots, depending on species, can live to be 20 years or more, and many live to 50-80 years. They also bond strongly to their owners. It’s practically like getting married, so don’t step into it lightly.
3. Talk to other bird owners about their parrots, as well as their personalities, needs, and time commitments involved. Ask how active different species are, how loud (all parrots are noisy, some are just more so than others), and how much interaction they require on a daily basis. ALL parrots require at least a few hours a day outside their cages when they can interact with the family. The more time outside the cage and with their “human flock” the better!
4. Think about where you will be putting your parrot friend. Remember that…
   • All parrots are messy. If you’re a neat freak, you will be cleaning up after them all the time. A dustbuster will become your best friend. In fact, you may find yourself acquiring a large group of such friends!
   • You will need ample space for any of the medium to large size parrots. This means cages that are about 24×36″ wide and 36-60″ tall or more. All parrots should also have some kind of perch or play gym outside the cage.
5. Remember that parrots are wild animals. They have not been selectively bred for generations to be domesticated or household pets like cats, dogs or even farm animals. They have millions of years of instincts that are genetically a part of them. You are bringing this into your home and can’t expect their disposition to be as docile and predictable as cats or dogs. You will need to be able to give your parrot guidance, but you will also need to learn and adapt yourself to their personalities.

Give your parrot room to spread his wings

Tips

• Some broad generalizations about species personalities:
  • Parrots usually known for even dispositions: Conures, Meyer’s, some Macaws.
  • Parrots known for being very playful: Jardines, Conures, Meyer’s, Budgerigars (”parakeets”), Cockatiels, Caiques.
  • Parrots known for being especially loud: Cockatoos, Macaws, Conures, Amazons.
  • Parrots known for being very intelligent and sensitive to their environment: African Greys.
  • Parrots known for being aggressive (not mean necessarily, but rather, domineering): Amazons
• African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos and Macaws all require an especially large amount of attention and interaction. Unhappy birds can make for a very unhappy household. These species also live the longest, so be sure you understand you are essentially adopting the equivalent of a small child, who will remain a small child and most likely be with you for the rest of your life.
• The inexpensive Budgerigars (”parakeets”), if tamed young, are remarkably smart and playful if given the time and attention they deserve! They can even be talented talkers.
• All parrots need a combination of fresh and packaged foods. A good balanced diet includes pellets, seed mixes, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. You will spend more time with preparing their food than with a cat or dog.
• A parrot needs daily interaction and ‘out of the cage’ time. Try to dedicate at least two hours a day to spending with your bird. Parrots are highly social and are very rarely alone in the wild, spending all day with their flock. You become your parrot’s flock so be responsible about spending time with the bird.
• Toys are important for a parrot’s mental stimulation. They will help entertain the bird when you are unable to, and give him something to play with and explore. Keeping the toys ‘fresh’ and exciting is important and you should plan to rotate new toys in (and old ones out) several times a month. For small parrots this is easy, but for large ones it can be quite expensive.