November 3rd, 2008 by Gypsy

Remember our Turf to Trees Forum if you have a tree question >> Turf to Trees Forum.

The photos below illustrate one way of making bird perches. Another option is carving or shaving the ends of sticks and branches to wedge them between cage bars and fasten with leather or material. But the hardware method does allow the perches to be anchored very firmly..

For the method below, select safe non-toxic wood and use stainless steel hardware.

That’s stainless steel washers, and whatever the bird can reach - but usually the washers. There are paragraphs below to make the project go smoothly as well as for providing a safe product.

The methods below will work for both ends of a long perch if you take your time to measure - maybe even trimming the length twice as needed in small increments. After you find your perch wood, about the only other supplies needed are the hardware pieces.

Those are:

1. Washers. These in the photo are called fender washers.

These need to be big enough to span across the cage bars without slipping off. So measure the bars first - the width of the cage between the bars.

The washers have to be stainless steel to reduce or prevent the risk of zinc toxicity; a hazard with zinc fender washers. Match the center hole size to the hanger bolt - item 2.

2. Hanger bolts. That is the threaded piece of hardware with a screw or lag type thread at one end and a machine thread at the other.

The machine thread end stays on the outside of the perch.

3. Wing nuts. I suppose you could use hexagonal nuts, but wing nuts are more convenient for many people.

If you use hex nuts, two of them can be used together to thread the hanger bolt into the perch wood with a wrench. See one of the images below.

At least in our case, the birds could only reach the washers. We bought stainless steel washers and were not too concerned about the metal content of the wing nuts or hanger bolts since those were out of reach on the outside of the cage.

These items (washers, nuts and hanger bolts) are available at most hardware stores. Sometimes the smaller hardware stores have a better selection of special hardware, or can order the pieces.

Be sure to match diameter of the washer hole with the hanger bolt diameter. Also check to see that the nut threads on the hanger bolt before you leave the hardware store.

Many of these items are available by the box or the bag, in quantities like 50, 100, or more.

The cost per piece was a lot less for the ones we bought when all of them were ordered by the box.

Smaller perches won’t need as large of hardware as larger perches. When the length of a large diameter perch exceeds 12″, you might consider extending the perch completely from side to side, with a hanger bolt at each end.

Bigger birds also weigh more and can put more pressure on the hanger bolt.

The perches in the top photo are about 14″ long, and were for cockatiels. I recall using 1/4″ hanger bolts for those. Had those perches been for our African grey parrot, 3/8″ hanger bolts would have been our choice.

Predrill a hole in the perch before threading in the hanger bolt. If you don’t predrill, the perch can split, similar to how splitting wedges will divide firewood.

Make sure the hole is big enough to start threading that hanger bolt in. But not so large that the hanger bolt will loosen; causing the perch to rotate free. Keep it firm.

If you hold the hanger bolt up in front of a window or light source, you will be able to see the inside diameter of the shank along the threads. You can hold a few drill bits in front of the hanger bolt, until you find a bit that’s the right size.

You don’t want a drill as large as the outside diameter of the threads. That’s too bif of a bit.

Hopefully its obvious, but you will be threading the “screw” resembling threads into the wood, not the “machine” threads. The threads for the nut are usually more numerous and closer together. Those stay on the outside for the nut, and the coarse threads spaced farther apart, thread into the wood. Those appear to spiral slightly.

Once you get your hanger bolts, you’ll see that there is no end to use a tool for driving it in. Not unless technology changes.

It’s not like a screw that has an indent for a screw driver, or a nut or bolt with a head for a wrench.

One way to thread the hanger bolt into the perch is with a nut that’s closed on one end. It’s an option, but those nuts are a tad bit spendy. If you will make several dozen, that may be desireable, since you can use a nut driver on the end of a drill or cordless screwdriver.

But you need to drive the hanger bolt gently if you use a closed-end nut. Otherwise the hanger bolt can punch out the end of the nut.

You can drive the hanger bolt in using a socket on a drill attachment as shown, or with a hand held nut driver, or wrench.

If you use the drill, go slow, not just to avoid damaging the nuts. You don’t want to drive the hanger bolt too deeply into the hole. If it threads in too far, you may have to damage the machine theads with pliers to get it back out. Typically, these don’t “back-out” of the hole well with wrenches and nuts.

You would need to clamp pliers directly onto the threads and reverse the hanger bolt out of the hole. And these hanger bolts are not inexpensive. Probably 25 cents to 50 cents apiece (2005 price).

You want to drive the hanger bolt in just enough to hide the coarse threads. And possibly the short segment without threads which is between the two types of threads.

Turn the hanger bolt and drive it in until the screw type thread dissappears into the perch and maybe and extra eighth of an inch. Hopefully the hole is the right size, and not drilled too big.

If you accidentally drilled the hole too big - making the hanger bolt loose - you have at least two options. One option is cutting one inch off the perch and drilling again with a smaller bit. The other option, is sliding a small sliver of wood into the hole, or a couple of wooden toothpicks. Sometimes that will work.

You can also thread-in the hanger bolt using two nuts and a wrench. Actually two wrenches.

You thread both nuts on slightly, one against the other, and holding one nut in place one wrench, you clamp the second nut tight against it with the second wrench.

Then, you should be able to turn the outer nut, or both nuts with the hanger bolt rotating its way into the hole. Once the hanger bolt is threaded in, use two wrenches to separate the two nuts.

If you don’t have extra nuts at home, be sure to pick up one or two of the right kind from the hardware store before you go back home. The small nuts seem more susceptible to having the threads strip. Keep one, two or a few extras on hand.

Don’t use any oils to lubricate the hardware or the hole in the perch before threading. At least not petroleum oils or sewing machine oil. A bit of vegetable oil or something like that might be okay, but shouldn’t be essential.

Once the hanger bolt is inserted and you are ready to mount the perch, slide on the STAINLESS STEEL washers and the wing nut.

One washer goes on first, then a second washer on the outside of the cage.

You could skip the washer on the inside of the cage, but if you don’t use it, that means your birds can gnaw the end of the perch a lot easier without the metal obstacle.

In case you are concerned about your clothes getting ripped or someone getting snagged on the protruding hanger bolt: put several extra regular nuts on the hanger bolt before the wing nut is threaded on.

If you find a well stocked hardware store, they should carry small parts called “thread protectors” which slide onto the end of threads (bolts) to protect threads. These also provide safety by covering the exposed threads.

Our small birds really loved a small “chunky” or stubby kind of perch - I just called them “bird pods” - cross cut sections from small tree trunks.

VERY IMPORTANT:

If you make these and cut the wood too thin - it cracks. In fact, you can see from this photo that a tiny crack is present. Make sure that the wood for these is cut no thinner than 3 to 5 inches.

Also, the faster the wood dries, the worse it will crack. Dry the wood slowly. Don’t put it in a warm laundry room. Put it in an area where the wood will dry out in 2 to 3 weeks.

Now, about the cracks. You are almost certain to get some kind of small crack. That crack can catch a bird toe or toe nail especially where the crack tapers to a wedge.

I understand that a glue like elmer’s school glue is not toxic to birds. Squirt a tiny bit of that kind of glue into the crack. Then, while the glue is still wet in the crack - rub sand paper over the top of the “pod” perch and let the fine sanded wood particles push into the glue in the crack. That will fill the crack and eliminate the toe-trapping gap. The glue will need to dry overnight before installing in the cage.

Occasionally, one of these develops cracks too large to fill. In that case, toss it away. But, if you don’t cut the wood too thin, odds are your pod perch will be fine. The birds may not be able to reach the washers with this kind of perch. In that case, zinc might be okay. On the other hand, if all perch washers are stainless steel, you eliminate the hazard of mixing them up during cage cleaning or cage rearrangement, or if you discard an old perch and recycle the washers. A magnet will generally pick out a zinc washer and leave stainless steel alone.

October 7th, 2008 by Gypsy

Are you yearning for a feathery friend to sit on your shoulder and ask you for a cracker? Parrots make excellent companion pets, but are also very high maintenance, have specialized nutritional needs, and vary greatly in temperament and personality by species. Here’s what to consider in deciding whether or not to make a parrot a part of your household, and which species would suit your lifestyle best.

Steps

1. Do your homework. Scour the Internet for information on the different kinds of parrots that exist, and what their needs are (see the External Links below). But be aware that many specialty “enthusiast sites” may emphasize how nice a pet is, with insufficient warning of the challenges. The “Birds for Dummies” book is a good reference.
2. Make several visits to a local pet store that specializes in birds. Get to know the different species, and don’t buy on impulse. Parrots, depending on species, can live to be 20 years or more, and many live to 50-80 years. They also bond strongly to their owners. It’s practically like getting married, so don’t step into it lightly.
3. Talk to other bird owners about their parrots, as well as their personalities, needs, and time commitments involved. Ask how active different species are, how loud (all parrots are noisy, some are just more so than others), and how much interaction they require on a daily basis. ALL parrots require at least a few hours a day outside their cages when they can interact with the family. The more time outside the cage and with their “human flock” the better!
4. Think about where you will be putting your parrot friend. Remember that…
   • All parrots are messy. If you’re a neat freak, you will be cleaning up after them all the time. A dustbuster will become your best friend. In fact, you may find yourself acquiring a large group of such friends!
   • You will need ample space for any of the medium to large size parrots. This means cages that are about 24×36″ wide and 36-60″ tall or more. All parrots should also have some kind of perch or play gym outside the cage.
5. Remember that parrots are wild animals. They have not been selectively bred for generations to be domesticated or household pets like cats, dogs or even farm animals. They have millions of years of instincts that are genetically a part of them. You are bringing this into your home and can’t expect their disposition to be as docile and predictable as cats or dogs. You will need to be able to give your parrot guidance, but you will also need to learn and adapt yourself to their personalities.

Give your parrot room to spread his wings

Tips

• Some broad generalizations about species personalities:
  • Parrots usually known for even dispositions: Conures, Meyer’s, some Macaws.
  • Parrots known for being very playful: Jardines, Conures, Meyer’s, Budgerigars (”parakeets”), Cockatiels, Caiques.
  • Parrots known for being especially loud: Cockatoos, Macaws, Conures, Amazons.
  • Parrots known for being very intelligent and sensitive to their environment: African Greys.
  • Parrots known for being aggressive (not mean necessarily, but rather, domineering): Amazons
• African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos and Macaws all require an especially large amount of attention and interaction. Unhappy birds can make for a very unhappy household. These species also live the longest, so be sure you understand you are essentially adopting the equivalent of a small child, who will remain a small child and most likely be with you for the rest of your life.
• The inexpensive Budgerigars (”parakeets”), if tamed young, are remarkably smart and playful if given the time and attention they deserve! They can even be talented talkers.
• All parrots need a combination of fresh and packaged foods. A good balanced diet includes pellets, seed mixes, nuts, fresh fruits and vegetables. You will spend more time with preparing their food than with a cat or dog.
• A parrot needs daily interaction and ‘out of the cage’ time. Try to dedicate at least two hours a day to spending with your bird. Parrots are highly social and are very rarely alone in the wild, spending all day with their flock. You become your parrot’s flock so be responsible about spending time with the bird.
• Toys are important for a parrot’s mental stimulation. They will help entertain the bird when you are unable to, and give him something to play with and explore. Keeping the toys ‘fresh’ and exciting is important and you should plan to rotate new toys in (and old ones out) several times a month. For small parrots this is easy, but for large ones it can be quite expensive.

October 7th, 2008 by Gypsy

Photo: Wild Quaker Parrots in Flight Over Midwood, Brooklyn
How did they get here? It’s a long story!

Attention all Urban Parrot fans: the next Wild Brooklyn Parrot Safari will happen on Saturday, November 8th, 2008, at 12 Noon. All interested wild parrot fans should meet at Brooklyn College’s Hillel Gate, which is at the intersection of Hillel Place and Campus Road. Our tour runs in two sections. You can attend either section, or both, depending on how many wild parrots you’d like to see!

Please e-mail me if you want to attend, so I know how many folks are coming. Note: there is no rain date for this trip. If we’re rained out, please join us in December.

Wild Parrot Safari — First Section (Brooklyn College): 12:00 Noon to 1:30PM
At noon, we’ll inspect the Brooklyn Parrots’ “Ellis Island.” Their large nests around the soccer field represents the first major colony in Brooklyn. The site is easy to get to via public transportation. Just take the Number 2 train (Seventh Avenue IRT) to the end of the line, walk one block Southwest on Hillel Street past the new Starbucks, and look for the main Brooklyn College date. The tour begins at the entrance at Noon sharp. Allow some extra time, given that the MTA is doing lots of construction/train re-routing on weekends. Driving instructions are available at Brooklyn College’s main Web site. Parking is fairly easy to come by in the neighborhood. If you’re late, just call me: I’ll give you directions so that you can meet up with us if the tour is already in progress.

Wild Parrot Safari — Second Section (Green-Wood Cemetery): 2:30PM-5PM.
Due to popular demand, our monthly tour will run an optional “second section.” After getting our share of the raucous antics of the Brooklyn College Parrots, at approximately 1:45 PM, our group will walk to the Q Train (BMT) station at Avenue H and journey to Green-Wood Cemetery, where we will observe the late-afternoon antics of the parrots residing there. If you just want to see the Green-Wood parrots, show up at 2:30 PM and we’ll be there. To get to Green-Wood, take the R Train to 25th Street and walk one block East to 25th and 5th Avenue.

What to Bring/What to Wear
Please bring a photo ID (this is required by Brooklyn College Security). Bring binoculars and a camera if you’d like to immortalize your wild parrot-watching experience. The weather will be warm if not hot, and we’ll be exposed to the wind and possibly strong sun, so bring a hat/sunscreen if you have sensitive skin. I ordinarily do not cancel the tour unless the forecast is for sustained rain in which birds will not fly.

Please feel free to wear anything except bright orange (Monk Parrots freak out when you show them something orange: in fact orange tags are one of the best ways to convince Monk Parrots to build away from electrical infrastructure). Wear green, blue, white, but orange will drive away the birds.

This Tour is Free, But the Parrots Are Hungry!
The Wild Parrot Safari is free - if you wish to help your hungry urban feathered friends, bring some bird seed: trust me, the parrots won’t soon forget the gesture. Wild monk parrots also appreciate “real parrot food,” especially unshelled peanuts, sliced apples, and raw sunflower seeds. Finch food or millet are always welcomed by our hungry urban “peeps.”

See you in wild, exotic Brooklyn!

Steve Baldwin, Webmaster, BrooklynParrots.com
steve@brooklynparrots.com
646-361-2879 (phone)