November 9th, 2008 by Gypsy

Choosing an indoor bird “house” takes careful consideration.

Your bird’s cage is its most important piece of “furniture.” Size is probably the most important factor to consider when selecting the cage. It should be roomy enough to allow the bird to extend and flap its wings without coming into contact with the bars. Small birds, such as canaries and finches, should have enough room to fly to and fro, and larger hookbilled birds should be provided with cages large enough to allow climbing and exercise. Birds with long tails, such as ringnecked parakeets, macaws and conures, require cages with sufficient height to accommodate their tails.

Don’t always assume that the cage in which you saw your bird in the pet shop is the correct size. Because birds are displayed on open perches in many shops, the cages may be used only for feeding or rest periods, and may not be suitable as long-term housing. Choose the largest cage you can afford and accommodate in your home.

Your bird will share its interior space with toys, dishes, perches, and perhaps a swing, ladder and other accessories. It’s also not unthinkable that you may wish to add another bird at some point! Take measurements before purchasing a very large cage to make sure it will fit through your doorway, if it’s a welded model. To avoid doorway dilemmas, assemble a “knocked-down” cage in the room where it will be used.

The style of the cage you select will be dictated largely by your personal taste. Rectangular cages are practical, easy to service and clean, and fit comfortably into most homes and apartments. Circular, pagoda, pyramid, “house” and even covered-wagon-shaped cages can be found, although most of the novelty shapes are available in sizes to suit only small birds.

Bar spacing on any cage should be sufficient to prevent toe and limb trapping, but not so wide that birds can stick their heads through them. Check cages with curved or domed tops to be sure that bars do not converge at the center. Welds should be smooth, with no rough edges to injure your birds or your hands when you’re cleaning the cage.

A good-quality cage finish will wear quite well if your bird does not actually gnaw on the bars or constantly splash its water. With the exception of stainless steel, all metal is subject to rust, discoloration or eventual corrosion, depending on environmental factors. Painted surfaces may scratch, chip, flake or stain. You should expect to see some wear as your bird uses its beak to climb about. Acrylic cages are becoming quite popular, and this material, too, can become scratched.

The finish on most cages can be maintained quite well with regular cleaning with nonabrasive products, and by wiping away water, droppings and flung food on a regular basis. Never use metal polish on cages, as it can be toxic to birds.

Put your pet’s habitat where the bird can observe family activities without being in the middle of a maelstrom. Place the cage away from sources of intense heat or cold, such as windows, radiators, fireplaces, air conditioners and exterior doors. Avoid locating the cage in the kitchen, since cooking fumes and temperature fluctuations can be harmful. The fumes from overheated nonstick-coated cookware can be lethal to birds, so you may want to eliminate pots, pans, and any utensils coated with a nonstick surface from your home.

Do not place cages in direct sunlight unless some shade is available, since birds may become overheated. Be aware of the fact that the air is cooler close to the floor. Place bird cages at a comfortable level. Mount a thermometer on the wall, at cage level but out of beak reach, so that you can monitor actual cage temperature. If other pets reside in the house, be sure the bird’s cage is out of range of teeth and claws. Some houseplants can be toxic if eaten, so keep them well out of your bird’s reach.

November 9th, 2008 by Gypsy

Tips on short trips, long trips and airplanes.

Before you attempt that cross-country ride, give your bird experience on shorter trips. Visit a nearby friend or relative, have a snack at an outdoor café, or even pick up some toys at a pet store. Provide some fun destinations: that is, somewhere other than the vet or groomer.

A few things to consider as you are heading out:

1. Never take your pet bird outside without it being inside a carrier, travel cage or attached to an avian harness.

2. Your bird’s carrier should be firmly belted to the back seat of your car. (The front seat can be dangerous if your car has a passenger-side airbag.)

3. Reassure your bird by making sure it can see you during the ride and can hear you talking.

4. If the day is excessively cold, hot or windy, and the trip is optional, wait until the weather is more accommodating.

5. Covering the carrier with a sheet or towel can protect your bird from the elements. However, Dr. Jorge Mayer, DVM, of Massachusetts advised not to cover the bird completely. Birds that are in the dark can stumble off the perch when the carrier is jostled.

6. Make sure your destination is not only pleasant but also safe for your parrot. Avoid anywhere that is dark, smoky, overly crowded or that might otherwise overwhelm your bird. If you are visiting friends with dogs or cats you are unfamiliar with, can you find a secure room for your parrot? Do your friends know how important it is to keep windows closed and to keep your parrot away from lit stoves and other hazards? Even though your hosts are well-meaning, be vigilant; they are probably not aware of some of the commonplace dangers to parrots, such as salty foods, chocolate, air freshener sprays, and so on.

7. Enjoy your trip! Your bird will “read” your manner and relax, even if it’s not quite ready to socialize and prefers to just observe.

Get Ready For A Longer Trip

A few things to consider if you and your parrot will be away for a night or longer:

1. Pack for both you and your parrot. A supply of your bird’s particular food brand is essential, as it might not be available at your destination. A stash of treats, toys, perches and dishes also makes life easier, depending on the duration of your trip. Also, a small carrier might be fine for a quick trip across town, but if your parrot will be spending a few days away from home it will probably need something larger. Luckily, there are collapsible travel cages available that you can assemble once you reach your destination.

2. If you travel to another state, confirm that there are no quarantines in effect and that your species of parrot is legal there. Quaker parakeets, for example, are illegal to own in California, New Jersey and several other states.

Flying With Parrots

When Jen Silva recently relocated her brown-headed parrot and two cockatiels from Texas to Japan, she learned how complicated it can be to coordinate such a move. Her first piece of advice?

“If someone is only going overseas for a vacation, I recommend finding a good bird sitter,” she said. Assess the difficulties and expenses to you as well as the stress on your birds, especially if the country you are visiting imposes a quarantine period.

Nevertheless, Silva had some good tips for domestic and international flights:

1. Talk to the airline, and make sure you understand their regulations for traveling with birds. Airlines differ not only in their policies, such as whether birds are allowed to travel in the cabin, what size birds are allowed and any extra fees. Silva learned that no pets are allowed in the cabin for international flights, and there is a limit to the number of hours the birds can stay in the cargo hold. Also, make sure your travel plans do not involve switching planes to another airline, with a whole new set of regulations and fees.
Check the airline’s specifications for carriers. Silva was able to adapt Chihuahua-size crates by outfitting them with wooden perches, spill-proof water bottles and a supply of food.

2. Obtain a health certificate from an accredited vet no more than 10 days before your flight. For international travel, you will need the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service, (APHIS) (www.aphis.usda.gov/travel/pets.html) form 7001, signed by both the vet and the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) person in your city; this form has a raised seal.
3. Also, if you are leaving the country, you will need a CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) permit (www.cites.org), which might take three weeks to obtain. Keep a copy of all your paperwork, Silva advised. You will need it for your return trip.

4. Make sure your birds are banded if you are traveling abroad.

5. Have your bird’s wing-feathers trimmed, or have it in a secure, safe harness. Airport personnel might ask you to remove the bird from the carrier to pass through security checkpoints, and you’ll want to avoid a panicked bird flying in a crowded terminal.

6. Research the types of bird food, equipment and veterinary care available at your destination. Bring enough food and supplies with you to last through your trip. If you are not likely to find an avian vet once you arrive, follow Silva’s lead: have your vet perform the full battery of tests on your birds before you leave home, and keep them indoors once you arrive to prevent exposure to new diseases.

Help Your Parrot Become More At Ease With Its Travel Cage

1. If the travel cage resembles your parrot’s regular cage in some way, things may go more smoothly. A vastly different appearance can be off-putting, especially at first.

2. Make sure the carrier is big enough for your bird, which should at least be able to turn around and enjoy some movement.

3. Leave the cage around for a few days or weeks so your parrot can get used to it and see that it doesn’t pose a threat.

4. Put some tempting toys or treats in the cage where your parrot can see them and investigate; for example, most of our birds can’t resist a sprig of millet.

5. Avoid dangling toys to prevent your bird from getting knocked around when the carrier is in motion.

6. Avoid a water dish in the carrier; your parrot probably won’t appreciate a sudden bath. Water bottles can be a great alternative as long as you are sure your parrot knows how to use one. Jen Silva, who recently relocated with her parrots from Texas to Japan, found investing in non-spillable bottles well worth the price. Juicy pieces of fruit can also provide liquid on short trips.

November 9th, 2008 by Gypsy

Mickaboo

Kip and Leena.

Every year, thousands of frustrated people surrender their pet birds to shelters because they lack the knowledge and skills to care for them. Patty Blau, a volunteer with the local bird rescue organization Mickaboo Cockatiel Rescue offers bird parents and anyone considering adding a feathered friend to their family the tools they need to correct undesirable behavior and prevent potential health problems.

“I’ve always loved birds, but believe that they don’t belong in cages, so I never pursued them as ‘pets,’” Patty explains. But in early 2004, she got to know her friend’s rescued cockatiel. When she did a little research into the rescue situation for birds, she quickly realized the enormous number that are purchased and subsequently surrendered to rescue organizations and shelters due to a lack of understanding about the time, thought and money a rewarding relationship with a bird requires. By the end of the year, she was fostering her first two cockatiels. Patty is now the proud parent to three birds and is currently fostering an additional eight. She also teaches basic bird-care classes throughout the Bay Area.

Mickaboo

The lovely Nora.

Here are Patty’s top five tips for living with birds:

• 1. Keep them occupied. Birds are intelligent and develop bad habits when they’re frequently left alone in their cages. Devise foraging activities for your birds when you’re out of the house and give them plenty of “out” time when you’re home.
• 2. Feed them a widely varied diet. Like us, birds enjoy a variety of foods. Alternate between organic fruits, veggies, grains and a good-quality pellet. Seeds should be minimized to only 15 or 20 percent of their diet.
• 3. Make sure they get plenty of zzzs. If your bird seems cranky, he may be suffering from lack of sleep. Make sure your he has a quiet place to snooze (perhaps even a smaller “sleep” cage) in a room that’s completely dark for at least 10 hours (and preferably 12).
• 4. Whistle a happy tune. If you’ve recently adopted a bird or have one that seems frightened of you, try whistling songs or whispering. They have extremely good hearing and will likely listen to you with curiosity and interest and begin viewing you as a companion rather than a threat.
• 5. Learn your bird’s body language! Your bird will send clear signals when he doesn’t want to be touched or approached, including (but not limited to) raising various groups of feathers on top of his head, neck or back. By giving your bird space he will learn to trust you and will be more receptive when you approach.

If you are contemplating adopting pet of the avian variety, Gail Ellis, education coordinator for the Marin Humane Society offers this advice for determining if a bird is right for you:

• Read everything you can about the bird you want to adopt and talk with a trusted vet.
• Even budgies (parakeets) can live very long lives. Assess your ability to commit. Do you have the time, resources and interest?
• Most parrots, including budgies and cockatiels, are as smart as a toddler and tend to act like one too. Are you ready for a perpetual two year old in your life?
• Parrots are still wild animals. They need exercise and socialization. When you are home your bird should be sharing in your life, not sequestered away in his cage.

For information about upcoming Mickaboo bird education classes and events click here.

Do you have birds? Share your stories about your feathered friends.